July 17, 2024
THIMPHU – A lot of Bhutanese people, especially young women, are falling into the ‘consumerism trap,’ and ultra-fast fashion serves as the prime example of this phenomenon in action, with latest obsession being Shein which now dethroned more expensive and established fast fashion brands like Zara, H&M and the once-thought-sustainable Bhutanese favorite Uniqlo (mea culpa for past few purchases). Fast fashion, as per Investopedia, is ‘low-priced but stylish clothing that moves quickly from design to retail stores to meet trends, with new collections being introduced continuously’. While fast fashion offers endless options, particularly appealing to low-income groups like students, it causes more harm than good. Consequently, this impact is felt not only by consumers but also by the planet and the workers involved in the industry.
A UN study (2023) reveals the dark truth of the fashion industry which is it is responsible for 8-10% of the world’s greenhouse gasses, and shockingly, its energy consumption is higher than both the aviation and shipping industries combined. Not only does the industry generate a staggering 20% of the world’s wastewater but it is also the second-largest consumer of water which surpasses even the massive footprint of the meat industry. While we are at it: A not-so-fun fact is that it takes 2700 liters of water to make one cotton shirt which would last for about 2 and half years for a person to drink. In addition, it is estimated that 60% of fast fashion clothes are made with plastic-based materials which make their way to the ocean bodies, and is equivalent to nearly 50 billion plastic bottles. It might not stop there – there are growing concerns that these microplastics are ending up in our bodies through contaminated seafood.
It only gets worse, with the industry having become a breeding ground for intersection of ethical issues surrounding most fast fashion brands, if not all. The backbone of their success is the workers in the global south, specifically young women between the ages of 18 to 24 who make up 80% of the workforce in the fashion industry. Apparently, this demographic group is also consciously being targeted by the brands by reinforcing the stereotype that young women should prioritize appearance over other aspects of life. Young women of this age-group are caught in a vicious cycle, where they are exploited both as makers of the clothes all while being targeted as consumers to buy ever more.
In 2018, a report by the US Department of Labor exposed forced and child labor in fashion production across Argentina, Brazil, China, Indonesia, Philippines, Turkey, Vietnam including our neighboring countries Bangladesh and India. It was discovered by the Fashion Checker through their surveys that only 7% of brands are paying their workers a living wage which means 93% are failing to decently compensate their workers. The disturbing gender pay gap also persists in the clothing industry where women workers are often paid less than men, despite performing the same tasks.
‘Good on you’ is a renowned rating platform that quantifies sustainability of brands based on people, planet and animals on a scale of 1 through 5 (1. We avoid, 2. Not good enough, 3. It is a start, 4. Good and 5. Great). The overall rating for Shein is 1 which means, we (should) avoid it. They are rated 1 out of 5 for people and planet categories, and 2 for animals. There are reports of Shein workers overworked and underpaid to produce thousands of styles each week, and they use plastic materials for their clothes. As for Zara, they are not good enough with just a rating of 2 whereas H&M is doing a little better with a rating of 3, acknowledging that it is a start. The list is not complete without rating the popular Japanese brand, Uniqlo which received a rating of 3. I feel that most Bhutanese people would be surprised (as I was) to learn that Uniqlo is a fast fashion brand when it does not seem so because of their decent quality and fewer styles than brands like Shein.
Bhutan stands out from many developing nations by prioritizing stricter trade regulations which has allowed it to avoid the pitfalls of the global garment industry. But what more could a small country do to combat overconsumption of fast fashion clothes that contributes to climate change? Afterall, Bhutan is the pioneer in the fight against climate change. I can, for one, think of the government discouraging people to buy from Shein – but at a policy level? I am not sure. The only solution to putting an end to this unsustainable model of clothing production is to slow down at individual level. Dialogues on fast fashion can be incorporated in overall climate discussions and awareness programs in schools and colleges which may help young people to understand the adverse impacts of the industry. In order to make a shift to slow fashion, people in particular young women need to make a conscious decision to stop ordering from Shein, or their products through retail shops or online platforms.
Personally, I have never bought anything off Shein even when the styles seemed trendy and prices were always so affordable – thanks to all the information I had access to. However, I have always and I still buy clothes from thrift stores for around the same price at Shein or even cheaper. There should be no shame in admitting the fact that some, if not most of us, have gone shopping at the notorious ‘supermarket’ in our beloved neighboring Indian town Jaigaon. Shopping for secondhand clothes or thrifting is a great way to tackle garment wastage as long as you do not mind the ‘dead person’ superstitions.
Another costless slow fashion action is to ‘repeat clothes’ and not give in to the societal pressure of always wanting to wear something new, or just restyle or upcycle your clothes for a new look. Finally, instead of discarding old clothes, the best approach is to gift or donate them to people who are willing to have them – a Bhutanese culture that needs to be upheld. Our traditional garments ‘Gho and Kira’ are passed down through generations which strongly demonstrates a natural affinity for sustainable clothing practices. The idea of modern thrifting needs to build upon this foundation, and encourage young people to not shy away from contemporary secondhand clothes.
While avoiding brands like Shein with a low sustainability rating is a great step, mindful consumption applies to all brands including H&M and Uniqlo. These brands may incorporate some sustainable practices but avoiding impulse purchases and extending the life of the clothes are key to a more sustainable wardrobe. Importantly, not everyone can afford luxury brands and thrifting is not for everyone but with some research, you can discover ethically made clothing at various price points which makes sustainable fashion more accessible. This way, your wardrobe choices will not become another form of single-use plastic – pun intended.
Consequently, as consumers move away from ultra-fast fashion and demand sustainable options, companies will be forced to innovate in order to accommodate these practices. This is not just good for the planet and people; it is a smart business move because studies show the global economy loses over $500 billion annually due to lack of clothing recycling and underutilization. The fight against climate change and workers’ exploitation can be strengthened by tackling fast fashion at both the individual and societal level – as buyers and as manufacturers of the clothes respectively. Therefore, it is critical to foster awareness through education and promote sustainable practices like using renewable energy to produce the clothes, and thrifting and mindful consumption which can empower young buyers – especially young women – to break free from the perpetual struggle of fast fashion. With a growing ethical fashion market, slow fashion has the potential to become the new standard for the environment, the workers and the consumers.
